How to look like you had 9 hours of sleep (even if you only had a few)
“I know all about cheating a sleepless night when it comes to makeup,” says London celebrity makeup artist Nina Westbury. “I worked as a makeup artist for a major European News network for four years and I would start my shift at 4:30 am. It was my job to get the on-air presenters ready for the morning news at 6 am. I would need to look bright-as-a-button myself so that the hosts would entrust me to make them look flawless for high-definition TV broadcasts.” She says when it comes to a ‘cheating sleep’ makeup look, you need fast and efficient products that get you out the door and where you need to be with minimal fuss.
Nina knows how to make clients look well-rested and healthy even if they just played a concert to thousands of fans and spent the night traveling to the next concert venue. Making up the likes of Debbie Harry, Boy George, Destiny’s Child’s Michelle Williams and Diana Krall, she learned pro tricks to hide dark under eye circles, sallow skin and fatigued complexions. She even perfected sports beauty, making up Venus and Serena Williams after matches at Wimbledon.
“Skin is one of the biggest give-aways when it comes to lack of sleep. When we are tired, our skin naturally becomes dehydrated, causing it to act like a sponge to makeup.” Have you ever applied makeup in the morning, then looked in the mirror a few hours later to find your makeup has disappeared? That is because your skin has absorbed all the liquid in your makeup. It draws the makeup into the skin needing the moisture. “To combat this scenario, I recommend applying a hydrating mask such as Dior Hydra Life Beauty Awakening Rehydating Mask while you are getting dressed or even while you are showering. Leave it on for ten minutes, then remove it with a face cloth. It will leave your skin smooth, plump and luminous for hours. And it smells divine. You’ll look like you’ve had 10 hours of sleep.”
“Clarins Beauty Flash Balm has been a favourite of almost every makeup artist I’ve known for years. It is a little secret weapon we carry around in our makeup kits.” She says extracts of olive and hazelnut instantly battle signs of fatigue and fine lines while tightening skin. Radiance is restored immediately. “If your skin is dry, you can use this in tandem with your favourite daytime moisturizer. Most often, I just use it under foundation.”
“It is amazing how red eyelids can appear when you haven’t had a full eight hours of sleep. I like to use a tiny amount of YSL Touche Eclat on the eye lids by gently tapping to blend the product on the lid. Then, I apply a little powder to set it. The result is amazing.” – Nina Westbury
There is a reason beauty editors call it “eight hours of sleep in a wand”. This brush on highlighter and concealer is unmatched when it comes to hiding dark circles. It instantly brightens and evens the complexion. Touche Eclat has won almost every major beauty award since its launch. “There are so many uses for this magical pen. I like to apply it to the inner third of each eye, where the darkest shadows are. I then blend it in by tapping gently with my ring finger. I’ll also apply a tiny amount to the brow bone and to the outer corner of each eye and blend in an upwards direction towards the end of the brow. Again, I use my ring finger in a tapping motion. This creates an instant eye lift.”
When you are really tired in the morning, you want to treat your skin to a foundation that feels beautiful. “Guerlain’s Lingerie de Peau Invisible Skin Fusion Foundation SPF has got to be one of the most beautiful foundations on the market. It gives a silky, medium-coverage, invisible finish that does not look cakey. It leaves a timeless glow that lasts all day. This foundation will cover that lack-of-sleep blotchiness and will blur out any imperfections. I simply add a drops to my fingers and blend it onto the face. Quick and easy.”
One of Westbury’s secret makeup weapons for early morning makeup is Guerlain’s Metetorites, a light-reflecting powder that is perfect for setting your makeup. It consists of a number of multi-coloured pearls that balances of the complexion of every skintone, leaving your skin flawless. It is available in loose pearls or a new compact to pop in your handbag. “I simply swirl the brush into the pot and apply it to the nose and chin, up my cheeks and across the forehead.”
Nina’s Best Morning makeup tips:
1. Apply a light shimmer eyeshadow like Clinique All About Shadow Single Soft Shimmer in “Sugar Cane” to highlight the inner corner of the eyes. This will instantly open up the entire eye area.
Curl your lashes! This is a step most women leave out. Why? Curling your lashes again opens up your eye area making you look more alert and rested. Hold your lash curler under a warm hairdryer for a few seconds to warm the end. You’ll find it much easier to curl the lashes.
Apply mascara! This dresses the eyes and gives you a polished look. It helps hide tired eyes.
Wear a bold lip colour such as MAC’s “Relentlessly Red”, a retro matte red with a pinkish-coral undertone or “Girl About Town”, a bright blue-based fuchsia that will inject you with energy like a double espresso and a chocolate croissant.
For more tips and tricks, visit Nina’s remarkable new website http://www.ninawestbury.com and follower her on Twitter @ninawmakeup.