There is a new star ingredient that is popping up in most of the blockbuster fragrance launches for Autumn. And it isn’t the expected Bulgarian Rose, iris or even jasmine sambac. It’s a tiny white flower that grows in elongated spikes and blooms at night. Tuberose, a plant native to Mexico, is suddenly in every perfumer’s palette. You’ll see it featured in Chanel’s upcoming Gabrielle, Gucci’s Bloom and Ralph Lauren’s new Woman scent.
Tuberose, also known as Polianthes tuberosa, emits a heavy, sweet scent and not surprisingly has a long history in the world of perfumery. It has been grown and harvested in the South of France for centuries. It’s interesting to note that tuberose does not bear any relation to the rose. It’s name comes from the fact that the plant’s slender stem grows a tube resembling a rootstock. White and creamy-pink flowers, each with six sword-shaped petals, bloom in the evening.
The flower has been used predominantly in many different religious ceremonies over the centuries. It is customary for the bride to wear a Tuberose wreath in traditional Hawaiian weddings. They are also used in many Indian weddings.
“Perfumery trends work in cycles,” explains Roman Poquet, Senior Fragrance Development Manager at Firmenich in New York City. “Perfumers will be inspired to experiment with a certain floral note and this creates a trend. We’re currently still in a rose scent trend. I think it is because perfumers have found new ways of making the note modern and edgy. There are some roses that have an almost fruity or spicy character.” We now seeing the beginning of the tuberose trend.
Here are some current fragrances that use tuberose particularly well.
Ralph Lauren Woman
Maison Margiela Replica Flower Market
Gucci Flora Gracious Tuberose
Ferragamo Signornia Misteriosa
These fragrances are available in Canada at Hudson’s Bay stores and thebay.com