Of all the beauty products to adapt as skin matures, foundation is arguably the most important. As skin starts to lose its elasticity and firmness, a hydrating foundation with anti-aging skincare ingredients can take years off your face. I’m particularly impressed with how far scientists have come in terms of reflecting light and adding luminosity to skin. This instantly makes you look more rested, alert and healthy. I remember interviewing a beauty scientist ten years ago when his team identified that youthful skin reflect light from within the skin. This was a big surprise. Light doesn’t just bounce off the surface of skin, it reaches into skin and then is reflected. This is part of the reason why younger skin looks so radiant.
I’m happy to report that this knowledge has been incorporated into many great foundation products. And one of my favourite brands for foundation is Guerlain. It’s a division of the LVMH luxury goods that owns Louis Vuitton, Givenchy and Dior. Which means it has access to world-class research and scientists. Guerlain’s Lingerie de Peau is one of my all-time favourite lightweight foundations. It is incredibly comfortable. But equally impressive is the Parure Gold foundation collection.
This week, I’ve asked one of Guerlain’s top makeup artists to explain how to best apply foundation on mature skin. He’s studied extensively with Olivier Echaudemaison, Creative Director for all Guerlain makeup and the go-to artist for royalty in Europe.
Makeup Artist: Maxime Poulin
Title: International makeup artist, Olivier Échaudemaison Art Team, Guerlain
Challenge: Finding flattering foundation for maturing skin
Dave:Please take us step-by-step how to apply foundation to get the very best results?
M.P.: You should always start on a clean and moisturized skin that you took the time to massage until the serum and cream are completely absorbed: if there is cream left on your skin your makeup will slide and not be long lasting. Then you apply a pump of primer, that you warm in your fingers and that you apply all over the face from the center in outwards gentle smoothing gestures. Never rub too much your primer because you want to let it set and create this tensing effect. On top of it, you will apply A VERY SMALL AMMOUNT of foundation with a brush, with gentle strokes always from the center going out avoiding pulling the skin and not going up in order not to put too much texture on small facial hairs we sometimes have. If your skin gets really too dry in the winter and you sometimes get little flakiness around the nose or on the cheeks, you can always mix a drop of repairing dry oil in your foundation to create an even smoother and repairing texture. Then you apply an illuminator underneath your eyes in the crease, so not right up to the lash line but really where the shadow appears. Around the eyes you always tap in order to make the product go inside the skin without rubbing to avoid moving the delicate skin of the eye contour area. Then you apply your highlighter between the brow, on the bridge of the nose, on the Cupid ’s bow, on the round of the chin and then on top of your cheekbones: this creates a light coming from within and works your morphology. Set lightly with a loose powder only where you need it and use a bronzer according to your morphology in a “3” gesture on your temples, cheekbones and jawline.
Dave: How do you choose between fluid and powder foundation?
M.P.: I know that powder formulas are easier and practical, but I really only use them for touch ups. There is nothing that will give you the flawlessness of an amazing skincare infused fluid formula. Fluid at home, compact in your purse!
Dave: When do you apply concealer? over or under your foundation?
M.P.: It depends on the skin that I work with, but to get the most radiance out of my highlighter I apply it over top of the foundation, this way I end up using less texture underneath the eyes. The important thing with concealer is to choose a shade that is really correcting for your under eye circle: orangey/yellowish tones are my favorites because they really cancel out the blue-purple undertones of dark circles. Never choose a shade that is really too light: it will give a really 70s look of deer-in-headlights and also avoid using a lot of it: a lot of texture underneath the eyes is always ageing.