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Why tuberose is the hottest scent note!

Tuberose

Autumn’s hottest perfumery ingredient offers a potent sensual impact. Beth Anderson reports on this very alluring flower.

 tuberose

Much like fashion and colour trends in makeup, perfumers tend to favour certain notes and ingredients at key periods. Five years ago, every master perfumer was incorporating rose notes in all the major fragrance launches. This past spring, rhubarb and violet leaf had starring roles in perfumery. These scent ingredient trends have much to do with advances in technology and plant biology. Scientists will find new ways of distilling or manipulating a flower or note which inspires perfumers to play with the new technology. Such is the case with frosted effects recently. Perfume chemists developed a way to create a frosted effect on fruit like raspberries and citrus – a perfect ingredient for summer scents. Many of the summer eau de toilettes did have a cooling mood or feel.

 

For autumn 2018, tuberose is riding a wave of popularity. The tiny white flower appears in almost half of all the major women’s launches. Here’s some background information on the sensual and alluring floral note.

 

gucci bloom acqua di fiore 

 

The Tuberose flower comes from a plant called polianthes tuberosa which was originally native to Mexico and Central America. The Aztecs were growing the flowers 600 years ago for use in religious rituals. Medicinally, they valued the plant for its anti-inflammatory and antispasmodic properties.

 

When the Spanish arrived in Mexico, they took the fragrant plant back to Europe with them where it gained popularity in Spain. It is now grown in France, Hawaii, Africa, India and China. In traditional Hawaiian weddings, it is customary for the bride to wear a Tuberose wreath. And in Indian weddings tuberose is widely used as a decorative flower and for its intoxicating scent.

 tuberose

Despite its name, Tuberose has nothing to do with roses. It is actually a member of the Agave family. The plant grows to about three feet tall with eight sword-shaped, slender leaves. The tuberose was named because it forms a thick, bulb-like underground stem called a tuber. The plant grows elongated spikes up to 18” long that produce fragrant, waxy white blooms.

 

A night-blooming plant, tuberose is prized for its heady, exotic floral aroma and highly concentrated scent. A couple of the flowers can scent an entire room. Tuberose was used extensively during Victorian times as a funeral flower and in “moon gardens” where fashionable ladies could walk at night to preserve their pale skin. Although, at the time, it was suggested that young girls should be forbidden to inhale the powerful tuberose scent for fear of inciting sexual impulses!

 ralph lauren woman

In perfumery, tuberose is known as a decadent ingredient with a creamy, rich, fruity and slightly animal personality. Master perfumer Roja Dove called it “the harlot of perfumery”, likely referring to its sometimes polarizing, yet aphrodisiac properties.

 

 

 

The first modern fragrance that prominently featured tuberose was Robert Piguet’s Fracas. Launched in 1948, it became a favourite of Marilyn Monroe, Brigitte Bardot and Marlene Dietrich. Fracas is a sexy and classic perfume which has stood the test of time. Madonna, Kate Beckinsale, Kim Bassinger and Courtney Love are among its modern-day fans.

 

 tuberose

Tuberose is an expensive ingredient — it takes 3,600 kilos of handpicked blossoms to produce one kilo of “absolute”. The flowers can be harvested year-round, but the main season is October/November when the yield can be twice as high as at other times.

The original extraction method was to press freshly picked tuberose flowers into clean tallow that had been spread on glass sheets. The waxy substance was dark, red-amber with a floral, earthy and fatty scent. Nowadays tuberose is processed by solvent extraction. Tuberose essential oil is used to treat insomnia and anxiety. 

 

In perfume compositions, tuberose shines when combined with other rich ingredients like white flowers, fruit, vanilla and coconut.

 

chloe 

 

Some recent fragrances that showcase tuberose include Ralph Lauren Woman, Carolina Herrera Good Girl, Gucci Bloom, Estée Lauder Tuberose Gardenia, Oui Juicy Couture, Chloé, Christian Dior Poison, Givenchy Amarige, Gucci Bloom Acqua di Fiore and Annick Goutal Gardenia Passion.

 

 


19 Comments

  • Reply
    Flossie
    August 15, 2018 at 7:12 pm

    I hope it can grow in Nova Scotia, I’m going to check. This was such a interesting read, Learnt a lot about what looks to be a very beautiful flower.

  • Reply
    Soos
    August 14, 2018 at 6:37 am

    You can sometimes find stems of tuberose at florists or farmers markets here in Honolulu. Lovely.

  • Reply
    O. Sunrise
    August 12, 2018 at 12:22 am

    Such a fascinating article. The “Tuberose” sounds enchanting. It would be a welcome addition in my garden. I’ll have to see if it grows here. Thank you for sharing with us!

  • Reply
    Annette P.
    August 10, 2018 at 7:36 am

    Tuberoses are one of my favorite flowers. Their scent is incredible!

  • Reply
    Cynthia Sacks
    August 9, 2018 at 4:51 pm

    Tuberose, hyacinth and all jasmines are my favorite flowers! Some “must-try” perfumes here. @cindy_sacks

  • Reply
    denise
    August 9, 2018 at 12:43 pm

    Tuberose is a favorite scent

    @momof3boysj

  • Reply
    denise
    August 9, 2018 at 12:39 pm

    I do love tuberose!

    @momof3boysj

  • Reply
    Linda L
    August 9, 2018 at 9:50 am

    Love tuberose in fragrances!! Excellent article Beth! @linlett60

  • Reply
    Hazel
    August 9, 2018 at 4:56 am

    So many lovely fragrances. Great article.

  • Reply
    Melanie E
    August 9, 2018 at 4:08 am

    Interesting info! Thanks Dave and Beth! @MaraMel

  • Reply
    Ann Lloyd
    August 8, 2018 at 5:57 pm

    Thank you Dave and Beth for a fascinating article. Tuberose and Gardenia sounds amazing! As does the fragrances that show case Tuberose!

  • Reply
    Emily Mitton
    August 8, 2018 at 2:53 pm

    What a fascinating article!! Thanks for sharing this with us Dave & Beth, I now have a much deeper appreciation for Tuberose!!

  • Reply
    AdeleAWright
    August 8, 2018 at 2:53 pm

    Great article Beth! Love that this note is in many of my favourites!

  • Reply
    September Dee
    August 8, 2018 at 1:26 pm

    Tuberose has to be one of my favourite ingredients. I find it really interesting and multilayered. It has allure!

  • Reply
    September Dee
    August 8, 2018 at 1:25 pm

    Tuberose has to bei one of my favourite ingredients. I find it really interesting and multilayered.

  • Reply
    Lady_ingenue
    August 8, 2018 at 11:55 am

    I only have a travel size of Gucci Bloom, but I love it. Tuberose is so lovely. It gives such a sensual vibe to any fragrance.

  • Reply
    Anna Roszak-Robinson
    August 8, 2018 at 11:39 am

    Love it!

  • Reply
    Yvette Apollos
    August 8, 2018 at 8:32 am

    Not Spanish or Mexican but a GUCCI WOMAN @cornears1812
    @cornears50 instragram

  • Reply
    Mary Maneta
    August 8, 2018 at 8:21 am

    All are LOVE!!!🎀💙

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